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Retinoids Explained: What They Do and How to Start Safely

Dr Adham Chakhachiro
Dr Adham Chakhachiro
NHS Dermatology Registrar
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Retinoids have one of the strongest evidence bases of any skincare ingredient available — which is exactly why they’re worth using properly, rather than diving in at full strength and undoing the benefit through irritation.

What retinoids actually do

Retinoids work by increasing skin cell turnover and supporting collagen production, which over time can improve texture, fine lines, and overall skin tone. They’re genuinely one of the few ingredients with strong, consistent evidence behind their effects — not just marketing language.

Why “start slow” isn’t just cautious advice, it’s the whole strategy

The most common reason people give up on retinoids is irritation — redness, flaking, and sensitivity in the first few weeks, often called “retinisation.” This isn’t a sign the product is working harder; it’s usually a sign it’s being introduced faster than the skin barrier can adapt. Skin genuinely does adjust over time, but only if given the chance to.

A sensible way to introduce one

Starting two to three nights a week rather than nightly, applying to fully dry skin, following with a proper moisturiser, and increasing frequency gradually over several weeks gives the skin barrier time to adapt without the irritation that causes most people to quit. Sun protection during the day becomes non-negotiable once a retinoid is in the routine — skin becomes more sun-sensitive while using one.

Where this connects to skin cycling

This is exactly why a retinoid tends to sit inside a broader structured routine — like skin cycling — rather than being added on top of an already-active routine all at once. The rest nights aren’t wasted time; they’re what make the retinoid nights actually tolerable long-term.

The honest note

Retinoids are genuinely effective, but effectiveness and tolerance are a balance — the strongest formulation isn’t automatically the right one for your skin. If you’re not sure where to start, that’s a reasonable thing to bring to a consultation rather than guessing from a shelf.

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Every recommendation at Clinic Platina starts with an honest consultation — never a treatment menu.

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